Lake Michigan King Salmon Run
By: JUSTIN GRADDY
Autumn in Benzie County, Michigan, is a feast for the senses. The air is crisp, the leaves are turning vibrant hues of gold and crimson, and the rivers glisten gold and silver. But the real show is happening beneath the surface of the Platte and Betsie Rivers.
Thousands of salmon, driven by instinct, are returning to their birthplace to spawn. It’s a natural spectacle that draws anglers from all over, and we can’t resist its call.
This year’s trip was particularly special. It was about more than just catching fish; it was about connecting with nature’s rhythm, testing our skills against these powerful beasts, and experiencing the raw beauty of Benzie County.
The journey to salmon camp is half the adventure. We chose a route less ordinary, the S.S. Badger car ferry across Lake Michigan. This historic vessel adds a touch of nostalgia to the trip. The anticipation builds as we cruise toward Ludington, the Michigan gateway to our fishing destination. Riding the S.S. Badger is a journey back in time.
This coal-fired steamship has been ferrying passengers and vehicles across Lake Michigan for decades. It’s a unique experience, unlike any other mode of transportation. The four-hour voyage is a relaxing interlude. It allows us to soak in the vastness of the lake and anticipate the angling adventures that await. Seagulls trailed the ferry, their cries echoing across the water. The gentle rocking of the ship was hypnotic. It lulled us into a state of peaceful anticipation.
As we approached Ludington, the excitement was real and robust. The sight of land after hours on the great Lake Michigan is always welcome. It signals the start of the adventure. The drive from Ludington to our base camp, Winding River Campground, is short and scenic. It winds through charming towns and past glimpses of the rivers we longed to fish.
Winding River Campground is nestled right on the banks of the Betsie River and is ground zero for targeting Chinook salmon. We choose kayaks to target the kings for their maneuverability and stealth.
They allow us to access the shallow riffles and deeper pools where the salmon congregate. Our preferred method for targeting king salmon is fly-fishing. It’s more hands-on, kind of like driving a stick shift versus an automatic.
There’s something uniquely satisfying about presenting a well-tied fly to these powerful fish. The tug on the line when a king strikes is electrifying, sends jolts throughout your body. They say the tug is the drug. It’s a battle of wills that tests both angler and fish. The challenge is part of the allure. King salmon are known for their strength and acrobatic displays, sometimes leaping more than 5 feet out of the water like an Olympic pole vaulter. Landing one is a true accomplishment. It’s a testament to patience, skill and a little bit of luck. But we are gluttons for punishment and will trade an arthritic arm for the memories. Soon we will have a campfire, throw on the local ’80s rock station, pour a whiskey and eat well.
Timing is everything when it comes to salmon fishing. The king salmon run typically peaks in mid-September to early October. This year, we hit it just right. Other years we have been too early or too late. The water was alive with these massive fish. We landed several impressive kings, their greenish-silver glow gleaming in the autumn sun.
The coho salmon run, however, proved more elusive. Coho, also known as silvers, typically arrive around the same time as the kings. Unfortunately, their major run seemed to have already taken place, but there were still a number of them around.
The unpredictable nature of fish migration is a reminder that we are but visitors in their world. Despite the coho run, we weren’t disappointed. The success we had with the king salmon was worth the trip.
Benzie County is more than just a fishing destination; it’s a place of exceptional natural beauty. The rivers themselves are captivating. They wind through forests and farmlands, their waters reflecting the changing colors of the season. The nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is a must-visit. Its towering dunes and pristine beaches are breathtaking.
A drive along highway M-22 is a scenic treat. This iconic route hugs the Lake Michigan shoreline, offering stunning views of the water and the surrounding landscape. Take in a hike up the dunes for a rewarding treat. Benzie County’s ecosystem is a delicate balance of land and water. The annual salmon run is a testament to the interconnectedness of nature. It’s a reminder of the importance of conservation efforts to protect these precious resources for generations to come.
As our trip drew to a close, we found ourselves reflecting on the incredible experiences we shared, the thrill of the catch, and the peacefulness of the river and of the crisp fall air.
Benzie County had worked its magic on us once again. We left with a deep appreciation for the natural world. We were thankful for the opportunity to witness the salmon run. The hospitality of Winding River Campground, with its friendly staff and prime location, enhanced our trip. We’re already looking forward to our next fishing adventure in Benzie County. The spring steelhead run will be calling soon, and we will be there to answer.